Sunday, April 1, 2012

Restauracja Na Zielnej, ul. Zielna 37, Warsaw, Poland

Almost effectively isolated by the renovation of Próżna street, and the construction of the Warsaw subway, Restauracja na Zielnej is a gem in a rough.  Located in the same place as Kai Schoehals’ Kom restaurant used to be, it serves an updated Polish cuisine.  “What exactly does that mean?”you ask. Well, how about a tartar made from the Polish bison meat, served covered up with a glass full of the bison grass smoke.

Or slivers of smoked duck with a pomegranate.  Foie gras with the cherry sauce and brioche is highly recommendable as well.

The main courses are based on the Baltic sea fish selection and the meats, which have not been imported from anywhere.  The presentation is fantastic.  The runny egg looks great on the pike perch in the mustard sauce.

My personal favourite though is the sliced venison tenderloin served on the fried potato dumplings with a gentle and tasty mushroom sauce.

To be honest with you, I was pleasantly surprised, if not shocked how well everything tasted.  Thus, I suppose, why despite all the trouble that one has to go through to go there, the place was relatively busy.  The service was efficient and discreet, and our desserts arrived at the right time. One piece of advice:  do beware of the waiters’ recommendations who seem to have a rather pedestrian taste.  Unfortunately, the retaurant is more well known by the actors and celebrities with a questionable taste who visit the place, than by the chef who prepares such wonderful treats; don't let that discourage you from visiting.  Another interesting feature, is the actual smoking section for those who need a smoke with their coffee, or a cigar with their cognac.  The place is rather formal, but the white linens, in reality, cover up Kai's old rough wooden tables.  The brick walls also tone down the atmosphere a bit; and some believe make them it more cosy.



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