U Kucharzy, ul. Ossollinskich 7, Warsaw, Poland

A friend told me some time ago that one does not go to „U Kucharzy” for the food, but for the ambiance.  It’s true that for  those who are tired of the “another fancy restaurant” look, this is the place.  It is set in the hotel kitchen of a truly magnificent, but now closed, Hotel Europejski.  I mean it is actually the kitchen, as the cooks are cooking right next to you.  The décor is natural to such an environment, and I am sure that some of the staff still can recall the Europejski’s heyday during the communist times.

Now, the food.  After my numerous trips there (mainly to amuse my foreign guests, who are always blown away by the idea and the environment), the best way to described what is served there is comfort food.  Unfortunately, nothing really stands out.  I mean it is cute that the server cuts the beef for the steak tartar on the cutting board at your table, but again the taste and the presentation are rather lacking. Thus, it is truly difficult for me to recommend anything.  Mind you the food is good, but that kind of food I can get at my grandma’s.  I don’t need to go to a restaurant. 

The place is also pretty famous for the rather spotty service.  Thus, don’t be surprised if the soup is delivered to your table, while the spoon to eat this soup is given to you 10 minutes later.  To sum up, if you want to be amused or amuse somebody with a very different restaurant setting, then this is the place.  Do not expect the food to blow you away though.

http://www.gessler.pl/newruk5.htm

Platter by Okrasa, the Intercontinental Hotel, Warsaw, Poland

Karol Okrasa, “the cover boy” of the latest issue of the Austrian „SucCEEd” magazine (http://www.diabla.at/en/magazine/std/Succeed/2012/1), has made his name as the chef at Bristol hotel in Warsaw.  His current restaurant is also in the hotel, the Intercontinental hotel in Warsaw to be precise.  I have never seen his TV show, but his natural boyish good looks must sell well among the ladies of all ages.  He claims that cooking is his passion, and I must say I do see it in his food. My latest experience at his restaurant was once again very good; an unusual feat for a restaurant at the hotel.  I have decided to start with a salad.  His a la carte salads are always an interesting mix of a protein and the greens.  This time around, I have decided to go with a salad with scallops (yes, I love them) in this really amazing version of béarnaise sauce.

The scallops were seared perfectly.  A very nice beginning.  Next, the ultimate test – kapusniak; a Polish soup based on the sauerkraut, which should be light and refreshing, and too often resembles bigos.  This one was really good. Based on the goose broth with lovage added for taste, it was excellent.

Following the kapusniak, I selected the fish for the main course.  The plaice was OK, yet rather tasteless and slightly overcooked.  The lentils though were a definite hit.  They had perfect texture (the one you get after getting them cooked twice), and the tomato confit (I think) added a perfect balance to the dish.

Yes, I am not the dessert fan, but when I heard they have that they have a passion fruit mousse and the poppy-seed cake I was in a bind.  I went for the passion fruit mousse, which met all of my gluttonous expectations. 

Overall, it is one of the best restaurants in Warsaw.  Having Mr. Okrasa run the place was a stroke of genius for whover made this decision for the hotel.

Zielnik Cafe, ul Odynca 15, Warsaw, Poland

In the culinary desert of the upper Mokotow, Zielnik Cafe really stands out.  Although, it is a small place with just a few tables, it has the setting and the climate to enjoy good food.  I have not been there for a while, although I used to eat there quite often a couple of years ago.  Then, it was the beef tartar and veal cutlets (if I remember correctly) that were my usual favorites.  Uncomplicated, fresh and well-done food.  This time around, I sampled the chicken livers served in the cherry sauce.  That was a very fortunate combination.  The cherry sauce was not too sweet either, and the cherries’ tartness played well against the taste of the livers.  For the second course, I have ordered the veal pierogi (a recommendation of my companion), who were beautifully served in a circle on the edge of the plate, with a small saucer with butter in the middle.  Pierogi were very good; the dough was light/thin, while the meat maybe a bit too dry.  Upon exiting the place – a nice surprise: a box for each of us with a little dessert sesame cake with some halva on top.  All of that brought some nice memories.  I have to visit Zielnik more often.

http://www.zielnikcafe.pl/

Cockney’s Bar & Restaurant, Marsamxett Landing Place, Valletta, Malta

My pals have asked me to review this restaurant on my blog for three reasons:

1.       It has been recommended to me by the people I trust.

2.       I have eaten their once, but they have eaten their again, and it was as good as before.

3.       It has a great informal atmosphere.

When I booked the place a week in advance, my expectations food-wise were definitely inflated by the reviews like this one: http://www.maltainsideout.com/13226/malta-cockneys/ .  At the same time, I was a bit apprehensive after the reading the comments about the service there.  Well, let me first start by saying that we have had truly fabulous service.  Our waitress was from Slovakia, and she was prompt and helpful.  When we asked about what fresh seafood they happen to have she brought out everything they had, and talked about each item.  True, we were there off-season so the place was rather deserted, but one has to appreciate the great service she has provided.  In any case, the place is very casual, the décor simple and the wine cheap; but the food is top class.  We were in the mood for seafood, and although we were tempted with the seafood pasta we have opted to enjoy “plain seafood”.  We have started with the platter of scallops with cheese (see the attached photo), and a mix of, both local and imported, seafood.  That was followed be a platter of the local specialties: sea bass, calamari and the fish whose name I do not remember (see the other photo).  Both fish although of definitely different qualities were cooked perfectly, not overcooked, not undercooked.  Like somebody wise said: you don’t f**k with the fish.  So, the approach to preparing everything was rather minimalistic, but everything was absolutely excellent.  The fresh calamari disappeared before I took the photo, and the fried ones were surprisingly good, too.  Furthermore, as a side dish they have served egg plant from a grill in a sweet sauce that was out of this World. All of this we washed down with the local white wine. And I must say, it was a perfectly simple meal if I ever had one.  Absolutely awesome!

Restaurant 99, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, Warsaw

My biggest problem with this restaurant for years was that whenever I ate there I had a stomach ache.  I could not avoid it in the late 1990’s as it was one of the few restaurants that were perceived as the “business” places, and the people, while they did not necessarily cared for food, had to be seen there.  The times have changed.  The restaurant boom in Warsaw is a fact, and 99 (fortunately) had to change.  It has been recently refurbished with a more modernist décor (an acquired taste), and an entirely new menu was introduced.  I have been there quite a few times already, and it appears that not only soda and MSG went by the wayside, but the food in general is really good.  The menu is a mix of the Polish and international dishes.  I must say that for starters the smoked goose breast with oscypek is first class; the steak tartar and the octopus carpaccio rock, too.  As far as the soups go both żurek (light and tasty) and Tom Kha Kai are excellent.  For the main course, among the pasta dishes, I would recommend the Thai-inspired rice noodles fried with duck, green vegetables and basil, as well as pretty fabulous kopytka.  The meat dishes also compete with the best in town, with the Argentinian steak with celery puree, and braised beef cheek in red wine with potato purée and boiled beetroot.  I am not a big dessert fan, so I will skip that part.  What I also like about the new 99 is that it picked up the tradition of serving simple breakfast menus picked up from the nearby Atrio that closed down.  The breakfast option was highly missed, and now is very welcome at 99.

http://www.restaurant99.com/?lang=en